Whole fish marinated in achiote and sour orange, grilled in banana leaves Yucatán-style. This healthy, high protein dish offers fresh, smoky flavors that define coastal Yucatecan family cooking.
In a medium bowl, whisk together achiote paste, sour orange juice, olive oil, crushed garlic, oregano, cumin, salt, and black pepper until a smooth marinade forms.
Rinse and pat dry the whole snapper. Use a sharp knife to score the skin on both sides. Rub the marinade generously over the fish, ensuring it reaches into the cuts and cavity. Marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Preheat an outdoor grill to medium-high heat. Rinse banana leaves under warm water and gently heat them over the grill or a flame until pliable but not burnt.
Place a layer of banana leaves on the grill grates. Lay the snapper on top of the leaves, scatter sliced onion and orange on and around the fish, then cover with another banana leaf to create a tent and seal in moisture.
Grill the fish, covered, for 20 minutes. Carefully flip (using the banana leaves for support to prevent sticking) and grill another 10–15 minutes, or until flesh is opaque and easily flakes with a fork. Rest for 5 minutes, then serve, removing banana leaves before eating.